Fish Tacos with Quick Cabbage Slaw

1 small cabbage (shredded (about 4 cups))

1 small carrot (grated)

2 to 3 green onions (thinly sliced)

½ to 1 whole jalapeño chile (seeded and minced, optional)

1 clove garlic (minced)

1 tablespoon lime juice

2 tablespoons mayo

Sugar, honey, or agave nectar (to taste (optional))

⅓ cup all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

⅛ to ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika or chipotle powder

1 to 1½ pounds snapper, tilapia, rockfish, or catfish

2 tablespoons vegetable oil (suitable for high-heat cooking (like safflower or grapeseed))

12 corn tortillas

Torn cilantro leaves

Sliced avocado

Lime wedges

Salsa

Semillon

PREPARE the slaw by placing the shredded cabbage in a bowl and sprinkling with ½ tsp of salt. Massage and squeeze the cabbage with your hands to help it release its liquid and begin wilting. Transfer the cabbage to a strainer set over a bowl and set aside to drain for about 15 minutes.

SQUEEZE the cabbage of its excess liquid, one handful at a time, and transfer to a mixing bowl. Add the grated carrot, green onions, and jalapeño (if using). Toss to combine. Whisk together the minced garlic, lime juice, and mayonnaise. Taste and add a sweetener, salt, and pepper to taste. Pour over the cabbage mix and toss to combine.

PREPARE the fish by combining the flour, salt, pepper, and paprika in a shallow container. Pat the fish dry, then dredge it in the flour mixture.

HEAT the oil in a heavy (preferably cast iron) pan over medium-high heat until the oil is shimmery and flows to coat the entire bottom of the pan. Add the fish to the pan - if cooking multiple fillets, arrange them in a single layer with a little space between. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes per side, carefully flipping once with a spatula, until both sides are golden-brown and the fish is opaque and flakes apart easily in the thickest part. Transfer the fish to a clean plate and flake into large chunks.

HEAT the corn tortillas, meanwhile, one by one, in a heavy, dry pan, until soft and warm. Wrap them in a clean cloth as you go. (Alternatively, wrap them in a clean dish towel and warm them in the microwave for a few seconds.)

SERVE the fish on a platter with the tortillas, slaw, cilantro, avocado, lime, and salsa on the side, letting each diner assemble his or her own tacos.